The
construction and drafting of the bodice and sleeves reflects the popular
choices of dressmaking from 1857. Most notably are the shaping of the bodice
and the 
pagoda
sleeve which is considered to have reached its height of popularity at
this point.
The bodice is a smooth fit. Lined with muslin, the two front darts are boned. (Note that hand stitching forms the casing for the bones.) The fashion fabric is cut to the period line and stitched to the muslin base. In the 1860s it was common to cut the back in three pieces with no center back seam. Where this piece meets the waistline the centerback piece is less than two inches wide. The curved side pieces are cut on the bias of the fabric to insure a snug, smooth fit.