Bonnets
and Hats: Hair
With less of a brim, a brim with a greater arch and no covering on the
neck, hairstyles became more important and more varied. The hair of the1850s
becomes less severe as the more hair is exposed, the more curls develop.
Popular
in the sixties became the chignon of hair. For more casual day wear often
controlled by hairnet, called a snood. Some women wore caps indoors, like
this white muslin breakfast cap with buff ribbons in the July 1865 issue
of Godey's Lady's Book. Curls on the forehead were able to accentuate the
fashionable bonnet perched on the forehead. It was popular to accent the
curls and chignons with flowers for the evening. Women were also known
to add false hair when their own was too spare for evening occasions.
The Coiffures seen in Godey's Lady's, July 1865 show the trend in evening
hairstyles. The Karachokoff Coiffure is crimpled and rolled from the face,
and on the right side is a bunch of short curls. The hair is braided and
arranged in three loops in the back with a long curl falling on the left
shoulder. The headdress is composed of white flowers, green leaves and
a scarlet velvet ribbon.
This fashionable coiffure of the month for young ladies makes use of
a greater number of curls. A false coronet of braids is arranged over
the front of the head. The hair is then rolled over it at the sides. The
backhair is arranged in braids, loops and long Grecian curls. The hairstyle
is adorned with gold foliage and scarlet flowers.
Suggested for a ball, the hair is rolled off the face in a Pompadour
style and arranged in full Grecian curls in the back. "A tuft of flowers
is placed over the forehead, while sprays of delicate blossoms are carried
gracefully round the head, and fall over the curls at the back." (
Godeys, July 1865,p.21)
This ball coiffure on page 71 of Godey's July 1865 issue, braids the hair in the back and arranges the loops, "gracefully interlinked." The front is styled in a quantity of curls with a braided coronet.