The 1860s brought about a number of changes in the bonnet. "The first woman to venture out in a bonnet without a bavolet was Madame Worth. Her husband's first important customer, Princess Metternich -- always in the advance guard of fashion -- considered the curtainless bonnet charming, but everyone elese was shocked because it revealed the back of the neck (for the first time in well over twenty years.)" (Gersheim, p.49)

The following bonnets were Novelties for July 1865 in Godey's Lady's Book.

Fig. 1 "Dress bonnet of white tulle. The front is fulled, and the edge finished by a bouillon and narrow blonde edging. A full tulle bouillon takes the place of the crown, a broad blonde falling below it. Roses with foliage, are also at the back of the bonnet, and form the inside trimming. Strings of broad ribbon, and overstrings of tulle start from the back and tie under the chin."

Fig. 2 "Pearl-colored crepe bonnet, dotted with pearl beads, and trimmed with a fall of black lace. The curtain, or rather puffing, at the back is of white crepe, with loops of white ribbon. The inside trimming consists of a plait of scarlet velvet, with white flowers and frosted green leaves."

Fig. 3 "White crepe bonnet, made over white silk, and trimmed with roses and loops of white ribbon, with very long ends."

Fig. 4 "...is a bonnet of paille de riz, crossed by a trimming of the same mixed with white beads; at the back a double fall of blonde headed by the same trimming; the bottom edge is finished by a white ribbon, the long ends falling from under the blonde; blonde cap, with hyacinths and white string."

Fig. 5 "is a hat of paille de riz, the edge bound with cerise [bright rosy red] velvet; a plaid ribbon is rolled round it and a large ostrich feather placed at the left side."

Fig. 6 "White straw hat, bound with scarlet velvet, and trimmed with white marabout feathers, a scarlet bird, and an aigrette [a plume or tuft] of spun glass."

Fig. 7 "Black and white mixed straw hat, trimmed with blue and green velvet, and a close thick plume formed of peacocks' feathers."