To Sew was literally to Survive. The tradition of apprenticeship often began at her mother's knee. Passing this knowledge on was considered a standard part of a girl's education. Often these skills were further refined in her higher education. For a woman to have sewing knowledge and skills helped to insure her survival. This was especially true in the West.

In May 1860, Godey's Lady's Book expressed concern that stitching skills were often not as much a part of a girl's education as in the recent past. The editors strongly stated that this knowledge should not be ignored as skills do not "come by nature". (May 1860) Learning the skills needed to use equipment and advances in technology was important to keep a young lady current with the world. Solid skills could also lead to an honorable profession as a young lady "set out on the voyage of life". (May 1860)

The impact of the sewing machine and the development of the paper pattern changed the fashion industry. Dresses began to have more frills, flounces and details. As a result, fashions began to change more quickly -- and we all know how important it is to keep up with the latest look. To keep up with the changes, it took skills to interpret and create the garment from text and diagrams. Even taking a pattern from an existing dress could have its own challenges.

Through diaries and letters of the Covered Wagon Women, this truth becomes obvious. Women often used their skills and talents to earn money or trade for food on the journey to California. With her skills as a seamstress, Mary Ann Hafen supported her family and saved up to purchase equipment which would make her work more professional. (Hafen)

Dressmaking was one profession where women -- single, married or widowed -- could earn a respectable living. In the period from 1860 to 1870, Virginia City boasted 40 dressmakers. (Jan Loverin). Advertisements by independent dressmakers in magazines, regional newspapers and city directories were plentiful. Many dressmakers noted their European training or use of specific patterning systems. An address on C Street was considered the most fashionable address for one's business.

Dressmaker were responsible for the cutting and construction of the dresses and gowns. Many had apprentices and/or seamstresses who did the actual sewing of the seams. Stitching required less skill than the cutting, especially when considering the need for precision, consistency and quality of work. Sometimes, seamstresses were in charge of the design of the gown as well, working with a milliner. The client was generally responsible for providing the dressmaker with the fabric and trims. Generally, the rule of thumb was dressmakers provided the services. Dry good stores and/or specialty stores provided the materials and trims. Fabric that came from Paris or Lyon, France possessed a certain status. The client had a certain financial standing in the community; and it reflected the client's awareness of quality, as a woman sought to surround herself with beauty.

Generally, only women of the upper-class had the financial resources to not only purchase the fabrics and trims, but hire someone to create a stylish gown. At this period in time, most women wore custom made -- either by self or by a dressmaker. The cost of custom made dresses reflects the requirements of artistic sensibility, skill, knowledge and, most importantly, time. Also gowns became increasingly complex as fashion moved through the 70s, 80s, and 90s. Paying for time and skill is still an issue today. Skills and time of "women's work" of this nature do not share same status with equivalent professions. A well made dress of quality fabric was worth its weight in gold and served in a woman's wardrobe for years.

The boom-and-bust nature of the mining economy affected the stability of the dressmaking and milliner business. When times were slow, professional dressmakers and seamstresses were also known to travel with their sewing machines and take up residency with a family for a time. Depending upon the amount of work desired by the family, the dressmaker would create the next season's wardrobe. It could take from one week to six months. Typically, one room in the home was often devoted to the cutting, fitting and stitching of the clothing.

Beyond survival, the women behind the industry were the backbone communication of art, beauty, style and fashion for society. They helped to establish its norms and standards. Even at this point in time the world was becoming a smaller place. Communication of ideas and images brings us together in our search and desire for beauty.