CHITCHAT UPON NEW YORK AND PHILADELPHIA FASHIONS FOR JULY.

If our readers will refer to the cuts from the Stewart establishment, New York, they will have a very good idea of some of the latest styles of robe dresses. The birds are of life size, and of all the soft and brilliant hues pertaining to the feathered tribe. Garlands and bouquets of the rarest flowers, sometimes colossal in size, but of the liveliest colors, seem to be carelessly laid over the skirt. Others are formed into fancy devices and graceful patterns, having a truly charming effect. These jardiniere designs are only on the gossamer-like organdies. Shawls, scarfs, or burnous with hoods, generally accompany these dresses. They are of white, pearl,or buff grounds, and are only suitable for a watering-place. Quieter styles are to be had which are exceedingly beautiful.

The sash style, represented in Figure 1 of our Fashion-plate is one of the most desirable models either for pattern or trimmed dresses. Sometimes these sashes are stamped to resemble a rich, watered ribbon, green, blue, or pink on a white ground. Others are a plain ribbon of some bright color edged with lace and finished at the end by a loop. Others, again, have the entire band a close imitation of lace. A pretty modification of this style has these ends caught together by narrow ribbons, or cords and tassels. Rich cashmere patterns formed into fancy borderings, also broad stripes covered with chene flowers, or bands with buckles, ornament many of the robes. Besides the organdies, are percales, or cambrics, linens and piques, all are of beautiful quality, indeed no robes have appeared this summer in common goods. Rotondes or sacks generally come with these dresses, and are stamped to represent epaulettes, pockets, cuffs, and collar.

The new style of dress, open in the back, which we illustrated on page 215 of March numbers, has appeared in robe form. We saw an exquisite shade of maize pique with a delicate bordering of black lace edging in open back widths. The under-skirt was of white pique, dotted with black and ornamented with Byadere stripes representing black velvet and lace. This we consider to be one of the most novel and beautiful styles.

In wool good, there are also pattern robes. They are mostly of goat's hair, a material almost as lustrous as satin, poplinettes, foulouds, glace alpacas, mohairs, and poplin delaine of brown, stone, drab, or gray ground. these are stamped in braiding and lace patterns, lattice-work, Grecques and bands representing feather trimming.

Coralie clothe, a speckled crepe-like material, and crepe pongee are much in favor for promenade suits.

A new style of hairdressing is about to be introduced. The front hair and the lower part of the back are cut short, and this short hair is curled and frizzed. The rest is smoothly drawn back and turned under as if to be caught in a net. It is, however, kept in place by five fillets or bands of velvet, which pass over the head from side to side, and are sewed to a band passing under the back hair. This is a Grecian style and extremely pretty. Another style has the aureole of short curls with a long curl behind each ear; the back hair is braided and arranged quite on the top of the head. Instead of the plait a bunch of curls is sometimes substituted, which must also be quite high on the head. We give these styles because they are novel, but as yet they have only been adopted for ball coiffure. The hair is still arranged in a waterfall or Grecian at the back, and very high rolls or Pompadour in front. Bunches of short curls are much worn over the parting in front, also a row of light curls over the waterfall at the back. Most of these fancy arrangements are false; so also are the coronet plaited in three, and very much larger in the centre than at the sides. We give on page 21 a coiffure with a coronet plait, so that our readers may judge the effect. Sometimes the coronet is twisted with a large knot in the centre.

With a change of coiffure comes a change in the shape of bonnets, and we are told that these pretty, becoming and comfortable little half-handkerchiefs are to be discarded to give place to a bonnet with high, wide face, and hood-shaped Quaker-like crown. Loud will be the complaints against these bonnets, which we can hardly imagine becoming, and to ladies not favored with height, they will be positively frightful. We hope, however, the change may be very gradual, and that it may be long before Fashion obliges us to wear so voluminous a head gear.

The present bonnets are small, indeed so scant are some of them as not to be seen at all from the front, and just touching the waterfall at the back. Most any of the straws from the last season will cut into the little half-handkerchief bonnets, and by exercising a little taste, can be trimmed to look exceedingly pretty at a moderate expense. Take bias bands of crepe or silk of some pretty shade, cut the edges out in littlepoints, or else pink them, then make a rose quilling of the material, and sew it all round the front edge of the bonnet. At the back have the same style of trimming, only very much wider and fuller in the centre and graduated at the sides, then add long ends and loops of narrow ribbon about one inch wide, and you will have a very pretty bonnet. Flowers can be mixed in with the ruching with good effect, and a scarf of illusion can take the place of the ribbon at the back. No side tabs are required inside, and if the hair is worn in the Pompadour style, very little trimming of any kind can be used. A tuft of flowers with a few loops of illusion is all that is required.

French muslin trimmed with embroidery, Valenciennes lace, and inserting, is much used for bonnets, especially for children. They are trimmed with flowers and ribbon, and are exceedingly coquettish and youthful looking. They are made up either in the fanchou or half-handkerchief style, or with a cap crown. Other styles are made up of French muslin drawn over colored silks and trimmed with ribbon, these are also very pretty. White illusion over shirred silk is also one of the fashionable styles. Crystal drops and beads, spangles, some plain and some star-shaped, are dotted over both bonnets and veils.

Some new Parisian bonnets have appeared made of grenadine dotted over with small beads woven on the material. We have two other novelties in the way of bonnets. One is composed entirely of Parma violets; the flowers are arranged lengthwise, and the cap is an aureole of violets. The other is entirely formed of ostrich feathers. The front is covered with rows of feathers so arranged as to give the effect of a drawn bonnet; the back is formed of a tuft of loose feathers and a few flowers; the edge is of ostrich feathers and the cap of flowers.

Thin mantles are now displayed in great profusion in the showrooms of Mr. Brodie, No 300 Canal Street, New York. The lace wraps take the lead, and among them the Llama are great favorites. In shape there are points and circulars, long and short, with and without hoods. These styles are brought out both in white and black lace.

The most suitable wraps, however, for young ladies, are the fresh looking mantles of white barège, or grenadine barège. The latter tissue is of the most elegant quality, of large mesh, exceedingly durable, and of sufficient width for a shawl. Both styles of barège are made into half shawls shaped to the shoulders, scars, sacks, paletots, and circulars, trimmed with fluting, floss silk fringes, mixed with snowballs and beads, black velvet and lace, quillings of ribbon, and goats' hair tassels. A specimen worthy of note is of white grenadine barège, scarf shape, cut in one piece, and trimmed with flutings of the material edged with a narrow gimp or cordon of straw, and dotted with tiny straw buttons.

Another pretty style, suitable for a young lady is, like a pelerine, high on the shoulders, and pointed in the back; it crosses in front like a fichu,and falls either at the sides or back, in long ends. The entire mantle is trimmed with narrow ruffles of barège, and loops of narrow black velvet.

Besides a very full assortment of thin mantles of every description, there is every variety of cloth and silk wrap, which are generally required during the entire summer. They are, as we observed last month, mostly of the half-tight fitting shape, or else loose sacks, with her and there a circular, nothing very novel in shape, the chief attraction being in the richness and variety of the trimmings. A slight variety in the way of shape, however, is tight fitting at the back, but rounded off at the sides to form sleeves, with long scarf ends in front. A very elegant model is ornamented with festoons of velvet ribbon caught up by Louis XV bows with three loops formed of jet and steel beads. In some, birds and butterflies formed of gimp, jet, and lace, take the place of the bow. A novel trimming for a circular consists of a box-plaited piece set on at the back, reaching a little below the waist. The end is pointed and trimmed with mohair fringe, reminding one of the Arab burnous.

A very jaunty little affair for a Miss is made of either cloth or silk, fastens with a single button at the throat and slopes suddenly off to the back, reaching but a short distance below the waist. It is very fancifully trimmed with braid and buttons. Another novelty is a loose fitting casaque with a waistcoat of the same, elaborately trimmed with the bands and buckles.

From Mme. Demorest, who is always foremost in novelties, we have several new models for out-door garments, wrappers, etc. The circle morning robe is cut nearly the same as a circle cloak, with the exception that the armhole is cut out and a seam is on the shoulder. The material should be laid straightup the front; this will bring a bias seam down the back. It may be worn loose or confined at the waist with a girdle. It is suitable for either thick or thin goods, and is really a very easy, comfortable garment, and at the same time very pretty. For the present season a very tasteful one is made of French blue jaconet. The skirt is scalloped on the edge, and finished with a white linen cord disposed at intervals in loops. The centre of each breadth has a pyramidal ornament formed of linen cord and finished with two linen tassels. The sleeves are coat-shaped, and trimmed to match.The latest style of infant's cloak is a pique sack with Talma cape, the novelty is in the cape, which is formed entirely of gores marked off by a very open inserting, bordered on each side by a delicate braiding design. The entire cape is then trimmed with a worked edge. It is the prettiest thing in the way of an infant's cloak we have seen, and could be readily made at a trifling cost by any one the least familiar with the art of embroidery. The inserting need be but a collection of eyelets, and the braiding a very simple pattern. It is the combination and shape which produce the charming effect. Dress skirts for little boys are made in the same style with admirable effect.

A new article has appeared for facing of dresses. It is of hair-clothbound on each edge and stiffened with whalebone.

From the same establishment, 473 Broadway, New York, we have a very graceful jacket pattern for a Miss, suitable for either silk or cloth.It is double-breasted, with pocket; tight fitting and has two coat-tails at the back with pockets in them. We would recommend it as a very stylish traveling jacket.

Most of the dress skirts are gored, and Mme. Demorest's method of goring is as follows: Fold over six inches on each side of the upper part of the front breadth, graduating this down two-thirds of the skirt, baste this down. The next breadth set one inch below at the bottom, and sew the straight edge to the bias line of the front breadth. Fold a gore of eight inches on the farther side of this breadth, and so continue all round the skirt, setting each one breadth one inch below at the lower edge. By this method you have a handsomely gored train skirt without cutting up the material. A plain skirt should also have each breadth set one inch longer at the bottom and then trimmed off to form a train. In plaiting, lay one large treble box-plait in the center of the back, and the rest in flat plaits all alike toward the front. Gored skirts are plaited in clusters of two or three plaits laid deep with a space between. A box-plait in the back and four clusters are sufficient for a skirt.

Many novelties in the shape of parasols have appeared this season. The most elegant are of white silk entirely covered with rows of marabout feathers, producing a soft, snowy-like appearance, especially novel and beautiful. Other styles, less conspicuous, are of white silk with medallions of black mohair lace in each division. An illustration of this parasol can be seen in the cut from Mr. Vogel's establishment. Others are of white or black silk bound with colors, and dotted over with crystal or black beads, and finished with a wide Llama or goat's hair fringe. Some are ornamented with sprays, butterflies, or birds, embroidered with beads on each division, while smaller sprays or butterflies are scattered over the entire parasol. Most all are lined with white, and the stick and frame are generally of metal. A very desirableand useful parasol is of Pongee lined with white silk, and mounted on a metal frame. FASHION ---Godey's Lady's Book, July 1865, vol. LXXI